Learn how to stitch DBJJ ITH Mix-and-Match Quilt Blocks with and without batting, then explore easy quilt layout ideas including rail fence, half square triangles, flying geese, pinwheels, diamonds, and chevrons.

If your quilt points don't always line up perfectly, these ITH Mix-and-Match Quilt Blocks are going to become a favorite. They're easy to stitch, interchangeable with Quilting Backdrops™, and make creating beautiful quilt designs surprisingly simple. Today I'll show you how to stitch them and share lots of layout ideas to inspire your next quilt. Before you know it you’ll be finishing your own quilt!

Supplies

Don’t forget to check out the Designs by JuJu Amazon store for our design team’s favorite supplies. And for stabilizers, batting, and threads, Designs by JuJu+ has everything you need.

Supplies

Directions

The fun thing about these quilt blocks is that there are so many ways to use them. Your imagination is the limit! I started by just sketching out some quilt blocks that I would like to make with them. I used inspiration from quilts I saw online, in books, or even just what my head was coming up with.

Design your blocks

The ITH Mix-and-Match Quilt Blocks are interchangeable with the DBJJ Quilting Backdrops. So if you want to add a decorative sashing to your quilt you can use them, but alternatively we can make the quilt blocks without batting and then they are ready to be finished out more like a traditional quilt top. I’ll show you both ways to make them.

Block with Batting

Let’s start making the Four Stripe block like we would a Quilting Backdrop. If you’re new to QBs, check out the Mini Quilt using Quilting Backdrops blog post. 

Hoop some magicMESH Stabilizer.

Hoop magicMESH Stabilizer

Stitch out your placement stitch for the batting.

Stitch placement for batting

Cover your stitches with the batting, tack it down, and trim close to the stitches.

Cover the stitches with batting, tack it down, and trim close to your stitches

Stitch the placement stitches for your first fabric.

Stitch placement stitches for the first fabric

Cover the stitches with fabric and make sure you have at least ½” around the outside of the block. Then run the tack-down stitches.

Cover the placement stitches with fabric and leave ½” around the outside edges

Trim close to the inside edge. I angle in the seam allowance so that it will overlap well with the next fabrics.

Trim the edge, angling so that it will overlap with the next fabric

Stitch a placement stitch for the next fabric. Lay the next fabric, right side down, with the edge of the fabric overlapping the line by at least ¼”. Stitch the tack-down stitch.

Adding the second fabric

Fold the fabric along the stitches. Then run the tack-down stitches for the fabric.

Second fabric in place

Trim the fabric and continue doing the rest of the block the same way.

Trim the fabric and finish the rest of the block the same way

Remove your block from the hoop, trim your stabilizer close to the stitches, and trim your block ½” from the outer stitching line.

Trim the block ½” from the outer stitching line

Your block is finished. Repeat and make as many as you need for your design.

Finished block

Block without Batting

Now let’s make the Diamond Center block without the batting. We will follow the same basic steps, just skipping a few. These blocks will end up being more like a traditional quilt top that you will piece together, then make a quilt sandwich with batting and backing and quilt at the end. I’ll show you how to finish them later, but first let’s make the blocks. Hoop your magicMESH Stabilizer.

Hoop your magicMESH

Stitch out your placement line for the batting. We won’t be using the batting but this is what will show us our “racing lines” to stitch in between later, so we want to see it on the stabilizer.

Stitch the batting placement line

Skip the tack-down line for the batting and stitch the placement line for your fabric. Cover the placement lines with fabric and run the tack-down stitches.

Tacking down the first fabric

Trim around the stitches, stitch the placement line, place your next fabric face down, and tack down the fabric. Fold it right side up and stitch the tack down for the fabric.

Continue with the rest of the fabrics for the block

Once your block is finished, remove it from the hoop, trim the stabilizer, and trim the block ½” from the outer stitching line. Continue making the block as many friends as you need to finish your design.

Finished block

Four Stripe Block Options

This is the fun part for me. I made four identical Four Stripe blocks. Now it’s time to arrange them into a big block. I like to lay them out and decide how I want them.

This is a vertical pattern that repeats over and over. It’s nice for an easy striped quilt.

Vertical pattern

I used the vertical stripe pattern but rotated two of the blocks so now we have both thick and thin stripes that don’t continue through the design.

Variation on the vertical stripes

And then the design I decided on is kind of like a Rail Fence block. The Rail Fence is traditionally made with three stripes, but it worked and looked nice with four too. I know the quilt police have never shown up on my doorstep, so do what you like and what makes your heart happy.

Variation on the Rail Fence

To stitch the blocks together I stitch the top blocks together along the center seam and the bottom two blocks the same way. We line up the edges and stitches and stitch between the racing lines. I love that this makes them all square and finished so nicely.

Stitch the top two blocks together and repeat with the bottom blocks

When it’s time to press the blocks, I press the rows in different directions. This helps the seams “nest” and lie flat when it comes time to sew them. So I pressed the top row with the seam to the left, and the bottom row with the seam to the right. Use a pressing cloth so your hot iron doesn’t come in direct contact with your stabilizer.

Press the seams in opposite directions

Line up the rows. Make sure your edges line up and your center seam is nesting. Here’s a photo of how the center nests. The bulk of each side sits right next to the other side. This makes it so the center seam will be continuous through the block.

Nested seams

Now that the rows are lined up, we will stitch them together through the racing lines.

Stitch the rows together

For the rows, I like to press the seam open so the bulk of the seam is spread between both sides.

Press this seam open

And here is your finished block. I love how easy it is for the lines to stay straight and the corners to be nice and crisp. Now it’s ready to be sewn to some other blocks, so let’s see a few more options.

Finished block

Half Square Triangle Layout Options

Half Square Triangles are some of the most versatile blocks out there. Here I made 16 blocks, 8 in one color and 8 in another. 

We can make them into Flying Geese.

Half Square Triangles in a Flying Geese pattern

A diamond pattern with alternating colors can be fun.

Diamond pattern

A chevron pattern always looks impressive—you could alternate squares or rows.

Chevron pattern

Pinwheels are a favorite of mine. They always look so classic.

Pinwheels

Or a ribbon pattern.

Ribbon pattern

I actually ended up sewing it into an inverted ribbon type pattern. I was happy with how the movement of the block kept your eyes traveling up the block. When I have done Half Square Triangle blocks in the past, I would find myself clipping my points or having points that didn’t quite line up, but with the DBJJ ITH Mix-and-Match Basic Quilt Blocks and the racing lines to sew through, my points always looked, well, on point!

Finished inverted ribbon block

Diamond Center/Flying Geese Layout Options

For this block I used the Flying Geese layout and Diamond Center blocks for the edges. For the middle I used the Four Corner Triangles block and used a piece of fabric where I could center the floral design. By using the same yellow for the backdrop of every piece, the colors stand out more.

Yellow block

I shifted the outer blocks one space clockwise and decided I liked that arrangement better. 

Shifted outer blocks

Sew the rows together using the racing lines as a guide.

Sew the rows through the racing lanes

Press the seams so they will nest nicely. Where this block is a 3x3 configuration, I pressed the top and bottom rows toward the center and the center row to the outside. It would still work to press them just one direction alternating each row, but this is another way it can be done.

Press the seams so they will nest

Here it is finished. I love how the center Four Corner Triangle block looked similar to the blue blocks before we sewed them up but finished out looking more like a frame for the flower fabric I put in the center.

Finished block

Four Diagonal Stripes Block Options

When we stitch up the Four Diagonal Stripes block, we again have options where we can make an alternating chevron pattern.

Alternating chevron pattern

But by rotating the bottom two blocks 180 degrees, we get a similar but different-looking block. I enjoy rotating things and moving them around to see what designs I can get.

Rotated bottom blocks on chevron pattern

I finished this one as a framed diamond pattern. I was so happy with how all the points lined up!

Framed diamond block

Half Triangle and Quarter Triangle Block Options

The Half Triangle and Quarter Triangles block was one of my favorites. I stitched two blocks with the dark fabric on the top small triangle, and for the other two blocks I switched so the dark fabric is in the bottom triangle.

Half Triangle and Quarter Triangles blocks

By rotating blocks and matching fabrics we come up with a block that’s a framed diamond made of four squares.

Rotate your blocks and line up matching fabrics for a finished block

This block also looks beautiful turned 45 degrees and set on point in your quilt.

Turn the block 45 degrees and set your blocks on point in the quilt

Churn Dash Block

I wanted to make the traditional Churn Dash block and I had all the elements to do so with the Half Triangle block and the Half Square Rectangle block. But I needed a center block that was just plain. This is where it’s so easy because I just loaded in a 6” Quilting Backdrop and stitched it out, but when I got to the decorative stitches, I just didn’t stitch them. So I ended up with a plain square for the center of my block.

Use a Quilting Backdrop square and don’t stitch the decorative stitches for a plain square for the center

And all stitched together it is a beautiful Churn Dash block.

Finished Churn Dash block

Basket Block

I also wanted to make a Basket block. But this time I added some decorative embroidery and used different sizes for the finished block. I made an 8” Half Square Triangle. I stitched only the flowers from a butterfly design from the Splendid Springs designs in the top part of the basket.

Stitch some flowers in the top of your basket

Now we will take our 8” top of the basket and pair it with some 4” plain blocks, and 4” Half Triangle blocks.

Use some 4” blocks to finish off the basket design

Once stitched together, our basket looks wonderful. I’d love a whole quilt of different colors of baskets and flowers!

Finished Basket block

Frankenblocks/Half Square Rectangle Blocks

And finally, I decided to have some fun with my Half Square Rectangle blocks. I made two blocks with the orange and blue fabric and two blocks with the floral and blue fabrics.

Half Square Rectangle blocks

Making sure the blue fabric is on the right side I sliced each block from the lower right corner to the upper left corner.

Cut the blocks on the diagonal

So now we have a bunch of triangles. We can mix and match them to see how we want them to be sewn back together.

Triangles ready to be sewn up

I rotated some of the triangles and made each block have all of the fabrics, and I alternated the side the blue fabric is on.

Rotate some of the triangles to get the look you want

Sew the blocks together along the diagonal with a ¼” seam. This will make it so your block is smaller than it originally was, so keep that in mind if you’re planning on using Quilting Backdrops with your design.

Sew along the diagonal edge

Now we have our “frankenblocks” and we can play with them to see how we want them laid out.

I just rotated and switched them around until I found the way I liked them. We had a tall rhombus design.

Tall rhombus design

Or a side-by-side rhombus design.

Side-by-side rhombus design

This one was just randomly put together, but I liked the center points.

Random block

And then I chose one that I thought looked like arrows.

Finished arrow block

Finishing Your Quilt

For my small quilt I sewed together four quilt blocks, made with batting, and decided to quilt it by stitching in the ditch. I centered my quilt top over my backing, wrong sides together, and pinned it in place.

Quilt pinned on the backing piece

I took the quilt to my sewing machine and stitched down the center seams. Depending on the look you want, you can choose to sew around more or fewer of the design seams. I chose a main element in each block and stitched that also.

Stitch in the ditch along the blocks and design elements

And when you’re finished, bind it anyway you’d like. Our binding tutorial shows you a few different options so you can choose the one that works best for you. I chose to do the method where I used the backing as the binding, and it turned out so cute when it was finished.

For my mini quilt I decided to do an end-to-end design. Our End-to-End blog post is a great starting point if you’ve never used these designs before. My hoop is a little smaller than my block, so I’ll need to do multiple hoopings. I like to cut my backing piece larger than my top so that no matter where my quilt top ends up in the hoop, there’s always fabric to hold it all in place.

Cut the batting just a little bit larger than the quilt. Then make your quilt sandwich with the backing wrong side up, batting, and quilt top right side up. For a larger quilt sandwich I may use a bit of spray adhesive to hold the layers together, but this one is just a little under 12” square so I felt okay to just float it.

Make your quilt sandwich

Hoop your quilt sandwich without stabilizer. I like to use my magnetic hoop for this project.

Hoop your quilt sandwich without stabilizer

Stitch out your end-to-end design, adjusting the quilt sandwich and running the design again until all of your quilt is stitched.

Stitch the end-to-end design

Remove it from the hoop and bind it the way you’d like. Since my end-to-end designs usually come off the edge a bit, I cut off all the backing and batting to get it ready for traditional binding.

Cut the edges and batting off to prepare for traditional binding

And then I bind it the traditional way with 2½” strips.

Bind with 2½” strips

The finished quilts look great. I’m so happy with how they turned out!

Finished quilts

One of my favorite things about these ITH Mix-and-Match Quilt Blocks is how many different quilts you can create from the same set of designs. Simply rotating a block can completely change the look! I hope these ideas inspire you to experiment, play with layouts, and create a quilt that's uniquely yours. I can't wait to see what you make! 

Head on over to the Designs by JuJu Embroidery Blessings Facebook Group and post your quilts there, or tag us with #designsbyjuju on all your social media! Happy quilting!

Melanie Zitzman

Melanie Zitzman

Melanie has been sewing and crafting from a very young age. She loves to quilt, embroider, and paper craft and is always looking for her next project. She loves gnomes and they are overtaking her house! When she's not crafting she is a part time dental hygienist, a voracious reader, and volunteer hospital pianist.