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Mastering Specialty Threads: Tips for Using Variegated, Metallic, and Heavyweight Embroidery Threads
Embroidery is all about creativity, but the threads you choose can take your projects from beautiful to breathtaking! While most designs use standard 40-weight threads, diving into the world of specialty threads—like metallics, variegated, or even heavyweight threads—opens up endless possibilities for texture, shine, and dimension. Whether you're curious about experimenting with these threads for the first time or looking for tips to refine your technique, this guide is here to inspire and empower you. Get ready to unlock the secrets to mastering specialty threads and take your embroidery projects to dazzling new heights!
Generally, when we are embroidering, we are using polyester or rayon threads that are 40 weight. The weight is based on the thickness of the thread. Most digitizers use this weight in their designs, and most embroidery machines are calibrated for this weight thread. If your machine has an automatic needle threader, it was made for 40 weight thread. That does not mean you cannot use lighter or heavier threads in your embroidery machines; you can, you’ll just need to make some adjustments.
Thread weight is the opposite of what you might think: the heavier the thread, the smaller the number; conversely, the thinner the thread, the larger the number. The heaviest weight thread you can safely use as your top embroidery thread is 12 weight. The lightest I have used is 100 weight. Let’s explore some options and things you need to be aware of when using specialty threads.
I consider variegated threads to be specialty threads. They are generally 40 weight, but they come in all weights. I don’t use them all the time, but they can produce interesting effects. Some have multiple colors and some have variations on one color. I have done stripes, plaids, and all sorts of other things with special variegated threads. A lot of how they look in your project is based on how the design was digitized. On the left below is part of my watering can table runner, made using Designs by JuJu’s Modular Seasonal Table Runner 2. I used a gray, variegated, 30 weight thread on the watering can handle, which gives it a textured look. After finishing it, I wondered why I didn't use a specialty thread on the border. The sample to the right, in pink, shows a 12 weight thread that is 2 strands of rayon and one metallic twisted together. Look how nicely it stitched out that big stitch border design! And in real life, it shines.
Another example is the March free design from Juju’s Embroidery Blessings Facebook Group, shown below. I tried the 12 weight on the heart on the cup, which didn’t work because there were too many small stitches. I did use a gold, metallic 30 weight for the candle and bit of frosting under the heart on the cake, and that worked fine. I also used a variegated thread for the wording. I placed my 12 weight sample next to this design so you can see how the more open the stitch, the easier the 12 weight will stitch out without any troubles.
Using Specialty Thread
The specialty thread you choose depends on the look you are trying to achieve. It also depends on the design you have chosen. Not all designs can handle specialty threads. You need a more open design for threads less than a 40 weight so the threads can lay nicely. It is always a good idea to go to the thread manufacturer’s website and read their tips for using their specific threads. I have had good luck with these easy adjustments.
Machine Function
Your machine needs to be in good working order. If you are shredding regular embroidery thread, it isn’t a good idea to switch to specialty threads until you have had your machine serviced.
Needle
Put in a new needle, using a larger eye for specialty threads heavier than 40 weight. I have very good luck with topstitch or metallic needles that are a size 90/14. The metallic needle has a longer, wider eye for the thread to slide through on its way to your project. If your thread shreds at this size, go up to a size 100/16 or 110/18 needle. Experiment to see what works best for you and your machine. Remember, do not use your machine’s automatic needle threader with the thicker specialty threads or it could bend the hook. It is best to hand thread the needle.
Tension
Most embroidery machines have self-adjusting tension disks. If your machine is older and does not do this for you, then you need to lower the tension to open up those disks for the heavier threads.
Speed
You will need to slow your machine down—way down. I have mine slowed to 350 or 400 spm (stitches per minute) for the 12 weight thread. I stay by my machine when I have a heavier specialty thread running and keep an eye on it. It only takes a blink for something to get caught and run amok.
Design Density
If you want to play with the 12 weight, I remind you to choose an open design. If the needle has to go into the same spot more than two or three times, the thread may break, bunch, knot, or all three. Those were the problems I had with the little heart on the tea cup above, which were easily remedied by choosing another thread.
Spool
How the thread comes off of the spool also makes a difference. Some spools need to be horizontal for the thread to feed smoothly. In this case, I run it from the horizontal spool holder up to a thread tree and down to my machine. Sometimes the thread needs to be fed vertically from the spool. In this case, I set the spool in a vertical spool holder and run the thread up through a thread tree and through the machine. Many thread manufacturers provide recommendations on how to feed their specialty threads, so do check their websites. If your thread starts unraveling or pooling, try a thread net. When placed over the thread, it keeps the thread feeding evenly.
Bobbin
I have good luck with the pre-wound bobbins. They are a polyester, thinner weight (around 60 to 80 weight), don’t cause lint, and embroider smoothly. You can, of course, wind your own bobbins. In that case, I would use a thread designed for bobbins, 60 to 80 weight.
Specialty threads can add a little extra pizzazz to your embroidery projects. I hope you try some soon, and be sure to share your creations with us on social media using the hashtag #designsbyjuju!
