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How to Do Reverse Applique: Add Bold Texture and Custom Style to Any Embroidery Project
Love applique? Don’t miss this creative spin. Reverse applique adds unique depth and style to your projects!
I love doing all things applique. When I learned about the reverse applique technique I was intrigued and excited! It is such a fun and different look from regular applique. Reverse applique is where the top layer of fabric is cut away to reveal the design underneath, adding dimension and texture that stands out beautifully on items like bags, shirts, and more. It’s an important technique to have in your applique toolbox. Let’s get started.
Supplies
Check out the DBJJ team’s favorite supplies in the Designs by JuJu Amazon store.
- Project to reverse applique - I’m using a tote bag.
- Stabilizer appropriate for your project - I’m using tear-away.
- Fabric for applique
- Thread
- Hoop - I’m using my 6x10 magnetic hoop
- Seam ripper
- Embrilliance software
- Optional, depending on your project:
- SF101 interfacing
- Gentle Touch Backing
- DBJJ designs used in this project:
Create Your Design
I started in Embrilliance to make my design. If you’re new to Embrilliance, you can check out this post to learn the basics. Because these were both BX fonts, it’s easy to save your design, even if you’re using the free version.
Tip: Reverse applique works best with simple, single-layer applique designs. Fonts and bean stitch designs are perfect! Multi-layer applique doesn’t work as well here so save those for another project.
I chose a bean stitch edge so that the raw fabric edge would show from behind. If you use a satin stitch, the finished look might not show much contrast between layers.
Prep Your Project
For my tote bag, I thought it would be easiest if I opened the side seams to help hoop it better. I used my seam ripper to take out the side seams.
Now it’s time to hoop our project. The layers are a little different for a reverse applique. We will first place our stabilizer in our hoop.
Place your peek-through fabric (the applique layer) right side up on top of the stabilizer.
Optional: If your fabric frays or the item will be washed a lot, consider fusing SF101 interfacing to the back of the applique layer for extra stability.
The last layer will be the fabric or project that we are using. So I’m placing my opened bag on my hoop next. At this point I will secure it with magnets.
Stitch the Design
I ran a basting box around my design first. This may or may not be necessary, depending on how you hoop your project.
Then we will stitch out our design. Mine stitched the applique letters and then the words on the top and bottom. I chose to use one color, but you can switch it up to make your project uniquely yours.
When it’s finished stitching, remove it from your machine and admire it so far.
Trim the threads on the front and back.
If you used a basting stitch go ahead and remove it.
Remove your project from the hoop and remove the stabilizer from the back.
Then trim the excess fabric. I like to leave a decent edge around the stitches. They don’t need to be clipped close like in regular applique at this step.
Note: If you’re working on clothing or baby items, this is where you could add Gentle Touch Backing for comfort. I skipped it for my tote bag.
Reveal the Applique
Now for the magic! Flip your project to the right side and, using your seam ripper, make a hole in only the front layer of fabric. To do this, I insert the seam ripper into the top fabric and poke the tip back up through the fabric.
Before I go any further I check the backside of the project to make sure I’ve only poked through the top layer. I’ve learned the hard way to always double check.
Once you see you're in the clear, make a slit in the top layer large enough for you to get your scissors in to trim around the inside stitches of the letter.
Trim around the letters. You will want to trim evenly inside each letter, keeping the same distance all the way around. I leave a little bit for it to fray and create character as I use the bag.
Once you’ve finished one letter, repeat the steps for the rest of the letters.
Finishing Up
When I’m finished, I like to use a lint roller to clean up any of the tiny threads and fabric that I always seem to have covering my project.
Because I opened the seams on my bag, I will stitch them back together.
And there you have a bag that is ready for its trip to the library. You could use words for a sports team, other hobbies you have, or whatever your heart desires! Reverse applique designs look wonderful with only a little work.
Tote bags are just the beginning. I’ve used this technique on sweatshirts for my family too. They pick the word and the fabric, and it becomes a custom, wearable piece. Your imagination is the only limit with reverse applique. Try it on pillow covers, book sleeves, baby onesies, or quilted wall hangings.
Reverse applique is a simple way to add custom charm to everyday items, and once you try it, you’ll be hooked! Share your projects with us in the DBJJ Embroidery Blessings Facebook Group or use the hashtag #designsbyjuju anywhere on social media. We can’t wait to see what you create!
